Low Season Splendour on Andros

A 5-day stay exploring the Queen of the Aegean

By Tony Hallwood – visited Andros in early June 2025

There’s a quiet magic to the Greek islands before the summer crowds descend, and in early June we found it on Andros. The northern most island of the Cyclades, Andros is often overlooked in favour of its more well known island neighbours—Santorini and Mykonos—but that’s precisely why we chose it. We wanted quiet tavernas, winding alleyways with only the sound of church bells, and golden beaches that stretch into silence. The island delivered much more during our five unhurried sun-soaked days and the warmth of the Spring sun was met by the enthusiastic welcome of the locals.

Day One – ARRIVAL AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS IN BATSI

My wife and I arrived in Gavrio, the island’s main port, after a short two-hour ferry ride from Rafina, Athens’ smaller port. From the moment we stepped off the ferry (which was on time, clean and comfortable), the pace changed. The hustle of Athens fell away, replaced by the peace and tranquility of the Cyclades greenest island. Our home for the next 5 nights Batsi, just a 15-minute drive south of the port, greeted us like an old friend. Tucked into a horseshoe bay, Batsi is a blend of whitewashed houses, terracotta roofs, and bougainvillea that spills from every corner. The local church proudly sitting on the highest spot keeping guard over the harbour and illuminated like a beacon at night.

Our comfortable and spacious accommodation at Paradise Design Apartments was just a five-minute gentle walk uphill from the heart of the town. The view from our balcony delivered an amazing panorama with turquoise waters and local fishing boats setting the tone for the days to come. Dinner was at Oti Kalo, a recommendation from our host. From an elevated position overlooking the harbour we enjoyed authentic, traditional Greek food. We enjoyed local sea bass and a memorable green salad with pomegranate and honey dressing paired with a local wine made from grapes grown in the island’s northern valleys. The sun set as the harbour lights flickered, the clink of wine glasses mixing with the buzz of Greek chatter. It felt like we had arrived in the real Greece—unhurried, warm, and friendly.

Day Two – BEACH HOPPING AND LOCAL DISCOVERIES

June is the perfect month to visit Andros for sun lovers and you can breathe easily before the summer heat arrives. It also means that you have many of the beaches all to yourselves before the Greeks from Athens descend on the island for their summer holiday in July and August. After a Greek coffee and a fresh cheese and spinach pie from the local bakery overlooking Batsi harbour, we set off to explore the nearby coastline.

The first stop: Agios Petros, a long and wide sandy beach just 20 minutes away, where we swam alone in crystal-clear water. The nearby Kaliva beach club was preparing for the summer influx but today it was quiet and peaceful. Close by Kipri beach echoed the same peaceful setting and lacked the tourists to spoil the view ! A real haven for windsurfers too. Later, we rented a car—essential for reaching the island’s more remote gems. Tis Grias at Pidima, one of Andros’ most photographed beaches, was our highlight. Down a narrow stony path, we carefully descended to a golden bay framed by dramatic cliffs and a solitary rock formation jutting from the sea like a sentinel. The beach was simply stunning. Lunch was in Ormos Korthi, a quiet seaside village where fresh sea bream and creamy tzatziki were on the menu at one of the local beach restaurants. Locals chatted and played chess, there was a relaxed air and we just chilled soaking up the expansive views over the bay. The village was picture perfect and it is clear that here nothing is rushed.

Late afternoon as the sun was setting on the west coast we stopped for a drink, salad and fresh fruit at Copper Beach and met Dinos who welcomed us with his Limoncella liquor – a real sundowner. Belitsa, our evening dining location right on Batsi harbourside did not disappoint. Excellent and friendly service with an extensive Greek menu that delivered a perfect end to our days exploring. The local cheese was out of this world !

Day Three – CHORA, NEOCLASSICAL BEAUTY AND CULTURAL HEART

On our third day, we drove east across the island’s spine to Chora, the capital of Andros. It’s a striking place—more neoclassical than Cycladic, with stately mansions lining the main street and marble-paved alleys that lead to panoramic sea views. The town feels like a museum that people still live in. We spent hours exploring.

The Museum of Contemporary Art had a surprisingly good collection for such a small island, and the Archaeological Museum gave us insight into Andros’ storied past—from ancient seafaring roots to Venetian rule. Lunch was at Fresco, a stylish cafe in the heart of town with a shaded alleyway. My wife ordered a salad with local greens and grilled Manoura cheese, and I had freshly baked Moussaka that tasted divine—with a freshly made fruit smoothie to cool us down in the midday sun we relaxed during the heat of the day. We walked out to the statue of the Unknown Sailor, a windswept spot at the edge of Chora where waves crash dramatically against the rocks. The ruins of a Venetian castle lie just beyond, connected by a narrow, crumbling stone bridge that feels like something out of a fantasy novel.

We drove the 30km back to Batsi late afternoon, winding past olive groves and quiet hills – a relaxing drive and we had the road to ourselves. Our evening dining location could not have been more perfect, as we dined at Branda overlooking the harbour watching the sun set over the nearby headland. The sea bream and local chicken followed by Galaktoboureko (layers of filo pastry with a sweet custard filling) were a perfect combination.

Day Four – MOUNTAIN VILLAGES AND MONASTERIES

Andros isn’t just about the coast. Its mountainous interior hides lush valleys and serene monasteries, and with a light breeze keeping the June sun bearable, we set off for a day of exploring inland with our informative guide Savvas. First stop was Menites, a green village famed for its stone lion-head fountains and shady plane trees. We wandered its quiet streets, accompanied by the sound of running water and birdsong, then continued to Apikia, known for its mineral-rich Sariza spring.

The highlight however was Panachrantou Monastery, clinging to the side of Mount Gerakones. The drive up is steep and narrow, but the views are worth every nerve-wracking turn. The monastery itself is serene, home to a handful monks and a cool stone courtyard perfumed with basil and incense. A monk offered us Loukoumi (Greek delight) and blessed water, and we sat for a while on the terrace overlooking a valley of olive trees.

That evening, back in Batsi dinner was at Mastello, right on the edge of the main beach — a local favourite and you can see why. We enjoyed the local fish caught that day followed by local honey-soaked walnut cake, and to finish a locally produced Kitron to thank us for our visit. Yammas !

Day Five – A SLOW GOODBYE

Our final day was spent exactly as it should be: slowly. We enjoyed our leisurely breakfast at Senso Sesto only 5 minutes walk from the harbour – Elenor, Dimitri and Anastasia were perfect hosts and made us feel at home serving our daily Greek yoghurt with honey, fresh fruit, exceptional coffee and warm hospitality. After a final morning swim at Batsi’s main beach, we wandered the narrow backstreets one last time taking time to visit the beautiful Saint Philip church. Back in the town we bought a jar of wild thyme honey to remind us of the amazing food we had enjoyed during our stay on Andros.

For lunch, we sat at Mastello restaurant overlooking the bay, enjoying the lamb in lemon sauce and watching the occasional ferry glide by, bringing with it a trickle of new excited low season tourists. Soon, the island would be buzzing with summer energy, but for now, it was still ours. En route to Gavrio we enjoyed our final traditional Greek dinner at the family run Almi restaurant which has panoramic views over the entire bay of Batsi – a truly fitting location to end a wonderful and truly memorable stay on Andros – the Queen of the Aegean.

Final Thoughts

Andros in early June is a Greek island dream that is waiting to be discovered – few know about the Jewel of the Cyclades but for how long? With timeless villages, uncrowded beaches, hospitable locals, it has a unique pace that lets you truly relax. Whether you’re wandering the elegant streets of Chora, enjoying cosmopolitan Batsi or swimming on one of the 62 beaches, the island offers a calm and peaceful alternative to the hustle and bustle of its close island neighbours.

Andros is not showy or flashy, but it can impress visitors in the low season months and that’s its greatest charm. We will be back (in the low season for sure) and we suggest that you plan to visit Andros soon before its secret is out !

Yammas !

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